Some CDMX Recommendations

CDMX #4 - Beyond Roma, Condesa, Juarez, and Polanco, there is a whole city.

To begin, a note on safety, which seems to be the hot topic when it comes to Mexico. CDMX is much much safer than foreigners think it is. In my 2.5 months there, I never once felt in danger. Of course, like any city, there are parts not to venture into, but to assume the aforementioned neighborhoods are the only places to feel comfortable is a bit unfair to the city and its people. In the same way you would be nervous to take the subway at 3:00 am in New York, I’d recommend exercising the same caution. Rely on your common sense, as you would anywhere.

I would say, however, that if you have an iPhone 2345 Pro Pro+, don’t show everyone. iPhones are not common throughout the world. They cost months of salary in many countries and are seen as status symbols. If you’re traveling long-term and want to be particularly unencumbered, perhaps consider getting a cheaper alternative. For short-term travel, don’t show everyone.

Now that that’s out of the way: This post is a super-basic guide to CDMX. I don’t particularly have anything against the aforementioned neighborhoods, but I’m just saying there’s more. I lived in the Del Valle area, near Parque de los Venados, so I mostly spent my days there.

Parts of this small guide come from stumbling into places and prior research (I’ve linked to a couple of articles) and I, obviously, didn’t see it all - as I’ve said in my previous post, perhaps to understand a city like CDMX requires an entire lifetime there. But even then, now that I think about it, even city residents haven’t explored the edges of their own megalopolis. Of the six people in the cable car that I took, four were from CDMX and “just seeing what this was.”

Because of it’s sheer size, my first tip is this - do not pack, pack, pack your days. There is too much to see and there will never be enough time. A large part of Mexico City culture is taking it easy in cafes, having long conversations, taking your time over beers. To rush while traveling is to chase the idea that you can see as much as you can, but how much of it actually sticks and resonates and makes a personal impact? If you’re taking a few-day trip, I’d recommend selecting the top 3 or 5 things that you absolutely want to experience, that a trip to CDMX would be incomplete without for you, and designate the rest of the time as spontaneous adventuring time. I’d say this about any city in the world.

Ok let’s get into it.

To know before you leave: 

1. Accommodation - For short term stays, hostels are a nice way to meet travelers, but price-wise, they not much cheaper than getting an Airbnb with your own room and privacy. Hostel beds are running at an average of $20 a bed, and I’m honestly too germaphobic at this point to do that kind of thing anymore. I don’t know much about high-end hotels, but if you’re staying on Avenue Reforma, you’re not going to actually be “in the middle of things”. What I do know is this - For mid to long term stays, Airbnb is unfortunately the way to go. The company is problematic - it is driving up rent prices across the city, because foreigners can afford more, and it’s another age-old gentrification narrative. It might be possible to negotiate prices if you’re staying for longer term, but other than that, I don’t know anything about renting there. You could also try Facebook groups to find a room in a shared apartment, but it seems quite competitive!

   1. I have 2 Airbnb recommendations!

      1. Long-term - This 2-bedroom in the Del Valle neighborhood, right above Coyoacán, is amazing! It’s local and residential and beautiful. If you book a stay here, the host is absolutely wonderful, and reach out to me because I have so much to say about what’s around. You could also make this short-term, if you’re looking for a nice, quiet place, but the common sights are a bit far from this apt. - https://abnb.me/JrEMp3MsRyb 

      2. Short-term - It’s right in the center of the city and has a private terrace and a nice view. - https://abnb.me/Sivf5PHsRyb 

2. Water - You can’t drink the tap water, but I’ve boiled the tap water for cooking. Your accommodation should have water options. Try not to buy bottled water! Take a water bottle with you and fill up at your accommodation. All the water that’s served at restaurants and in the drinks sold on the street are made with filtered water. The ice is safe as well.

3. Sim cards - If you are coming from the United States and your carrier doesn’t have any fees for Mexico, you’re fine. But, I recommend planning to get a sim card at a local shop (if your phone is unlocked). Telcel has the best coverage and is widely available in the city. I spent $200 MXN ($10 USD) for 30 days with 3 gigs of data and unlimited socials + talk + text. It’s cheaper if you’re thinking a week or two. Do not buy your sim card at the airport - they’re significantly more expensive. Go to a small shop which will say something like “recargas” (recharges), and may also sell other things like snacks and drinks. You’ll know it when you see it. 

4. Clothing to pack - The weather fluctuates between 70s/80s during the day, 50s/60s at night, and then, when it rains, it’s chilly. Think layers. Bring a sweater.  A long dress, a pair of jeans, one long-sleeve shirt, one short-sleeve shirt, some lipstick, ok I’m not going to pack for you. Just keep your athleisure wear at home. Traveling in leggings is such a bad look unless you’re hiking, ok I said what I said. 

5. Preparing for the street food - You must eat the street food. I don’t care if you have a sensitive stomach (I do, I’m sorry, I’m just emphasizing that if you can, you must =D). Carry some Pepto with you. There’s no need to take it preemptively every day, but it can help if something doesn’t sit well. 

6. Earthquakes - There seems to be one that hits every year. During my time, I did not experience any, but I made a plan for myself in the case that one happened. The city has 12,000 speakers that go off fifty seconds before an earthquake is about to hit. I think you should have a plan just in case. 

7. If you’re remotely working from CDMX - It’s so easy! Many Airbnbs have suitable wifi and the cafes are friendly to work from. If you want to hotspot off your phone, I do recommend Telcel.

When you land in CDMX:

1. Immigration lines are long these days, with Mexico City being a popular destination - expect a half hour at least to get through them. 

2. Once you’ve made it through, there are a few ways to get to your accommodation. There are public transportation options, involving the metro, but the taxi is a nice way to get from the airpot to where you’re staying - it provides a nice introduction to the city. It’s also not so expensive because somehow, the airport is right within the city. Don’t take the local taxis, instead download the following apps (Uber works, but try these, they’re cheaper):

   1. Didi - also a food delivery app (side note - other common food delivery apps include Rappi + Uber Eats)

   2. InDrive (I’m not sure if this works at the airport, but it’ll help throughout the city) This works in other Latin Americans countries too - you can pitch your price. 

Getting Around the City:

Public Transportation - You’re going to be fine. For 5 pesos on the subway, 4 on the electric buses and 6 on the microbuses, and 7 on the cable cars, you will see the city. You will also know how to navigate it. There are spaces on the buses and metro designated specifically for women. The metro stations are incredible - many have small museums and art exhibits. The government’s Ministry of Culture has really invested in preserving and showcasing Mexican history and art throughout the city. So, unless you are in need of late-night transport, or more accessible options, please take the public transportation.

1. How it works - Go to the “taquila” booth at a metro station, ask for “tarjeta, por favor” (card) for 15 pesos, and load it with “efectivo” (cash). You can use this card everywhere except the small green buses, called microbuses. For that, you need coins. Directions via Google maps are very accurate when it comes to public transportation, and there are many apps with the subway map.

   1. For the cable cars - There are 3 lines. I recommend taking the one that ascends over Iztapalapa because it’s the longest in the world, at 10.6 kilometers. Go to the Constitución de 1917 metro stop at the end of the green line and it’ll link you to the beginning of the cable car. I believe the only way to ride the cable car is to have a metro card - it’s 7 pesos roundtrip.

2. Transportation out of the city, if you’re taking local buses - There are 4 bus stations that go in the direction that your destination is. To get to the Teotihuacán pyramids, an hour northeast of the city, you need to get to the Northern Bus Terminal (Autobuses del Norte metro stop) and then there’s only one bus company for this trip - Autobuses Teotihuacán ($120 MXN roundtrip - about $6). On the way back, the bus stop in San Juan, the town where you’ll be dropped off, is right by the main square. This is an excellent guide to the CDMX bus terminals in case you want to venture out of the city as well.

3. Learn how to navigate without your phone - If you speak Spanish, try to get where you’re going without looking at your phone (maybe this recommendation is more influenced by my time in Ecuador, where no one in Quito seems to walk around with their phones out). My point here is not about safety, but about learning how to interact with people in different cities and looking up. Even if you don’t speak Spanish, give to a shot! Be curious! Ask people for directions, they will help you get to where you need to go. 

Food Notes!:

Oh my God, what a topic! I’m a vegetarian, so I am not the best food guide. I also did not go to Pujol. I am, however, your best snack guide: 

You must try the following (get them at an Oxxo): 

• Takis 

• Churremais 

• Chilli and lime gummy bears (enchilados) 

• AMC popcorn with cheese

• All of the snacks on the street - they’re called “botanas” - you can get spicy plantain chips, potato chips with Valentina hot sauce, spicy and salty corn, elote, etc, etc - It’s an entire universe. 

• Dorilocos - I didn’t try them and I regret it

• Don’t at me for my sodium levels, but the Cup Noodles here are amazing. I was only able to try the Habanero and Lime flavor, but damn.

• Have a selection of paletas, the Mexican popsicles

Small food notes and observations: 

1. It is difficult to be vegan here. There is cheese in everything. I also had some of the best palak paneer in Mexico City, at Tandoor - cheese is so integral to the cuisine that I’ve never seen that much paneer (the actual stuff, not a substitute) in palak paneer, ever. And of course, try queso requesón (ricotta) in your tacos. Thank me later. I’ve said this in every post from Mexico but I truly love it that much.

2. Churros - Churrería El Moro, Churros Jordan in Coyoacán, but also the churros on the street for 5 pesos.

3. Again, street food - you must. Be smart about where you’re eating - most places are clean and organized, but still, go to the places that are most frequented if you’re on a short-term trip

4. Buy your tortillas from a local tortilleria or, if you’re waking up in a neighborhood every day, there’s a guy on a bicycle with a horn who has tortillas in a basket covered by a blanket. They’re warm and fresh, and you can buy 5 or 6 for 5 pesos. 

5. Ok, in Roma, there is Pixza, which has “pizza” made only from Mexican ingredients. It’s so freaking good. If you’re a pizza traditionalist, then don’t look at it as pizza, but still go anyways.

A few activities that I highly recommend:

1. Teotihuacán, the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon - You absolutely must see them! They’re magical.

2. Anthropology Museum - CDMX’s most popular museum, is at the level of the Met and Louvre and all of those famous white people museums. Don’t feel like you need to see all of it. It’s quite overwhelming actually - at the University of Mexico (UNAM), there’s an 8-week class that covers only the contents of the museum. I recommend taking one of the double-decker buses that go down La Reforma to the museum - you’ll see quite a bit.

3. Chapultepec Park - It’s twice the size of Central Park and a beautiful place to spend an afternoon.

4. Take a cable car ride - I recommend line 2 (the logistics are in the “Getting Around CDMX” section above).

5. There are many markets - I used this guide to figure out which ones to visit.

6. If you’re a photographer, considering visiting Centro de la Imagen, which is connected to a public library that is absolutely stunning. Also, if you’re a film photographer, film is expensive here, about the same price as what you’d get in New York. I recommend bringing film to CDMX instead of buying it there.

7. I didn’t go to the super famous Frida Kahlo museum - Casa Azul - but I spent most of my time in Coyoacán just walking around. Spend an evening sitting in the park and people watching.

8. Vasconcelos Library is a beautiful library that’s a nice place to sit down and take a rest.

Coffee Notes:

There are so many cafes in the city, and if you’re a true coffee nerd, maybe your best options would be in the neighborhoods that I’m not mentioning here (I went to Buna and Cicatriz, and the coffee was truly incredible). But these are the three cafes in Del Valle that I frequented:

1. Cafe Negro in Coyoacán

2. Patio Cafe next to Parque de los Venados - hyper local, neighborhood cafe, but with great coffee from Oaxaca

3. Cafe Mar - This is for a look into how a residential neighborhood functions in CDMX. Go at 4 or 5pm - it’s right off the Parque de los Venados metro stop. 

Drinking Notes:

1. Of course, there’s the tequila and mezcal, but I don’t know much about them because I usually just stick to beer (Victoria, Modelo, Corona, and my favorite, Bohemia). I was surprised to learn that people don’t really drink Tecate here). If you don’t drink, there are many options. The aguas frescas (a bit lighter than a traditional juice) seem to have endless flavors (hibiscus and watermelon were my favorites) and fresh fruit juice is unbelievably addictive. Also, you can’t go wrong with a Topo Chico. 

2. Try pulque, the local drink that is related to tequila and mezcal, but less potent. Don’t have it at an upscale bar or cafe - drink it at a proper pulquería. I only went to one - Pulquerías La Gloria. If you speak Spanish, I’d recommend. 

3. Clubbing -  I only went clubbing once, at a place in Centro Historico called La Purisima. Honestly, so much fun - such positive and warm energy!

4. Terraza Catedral is a beautiful rooftop place with good prices in the Centro Historico.

5. Some beer notes: 

• I would say, for craft beers, there are a lot of places in Roma, Condesa, etc., but I would suggest to explore the local places in the Narvarte neighborhood. Hop the Beer Experience has a nice selection of craft beer. 

• Insurgentes is an avenue that crosses the entire city, over 20 km, and it has a lot of local bars to check out towards the southern portion of it, near the Mixcoac neighborhood.

• Go to the Tepito neighborhood and have a michelada - the famous michelada places close at 6pm. You can get off at the Tepito metro station. Don’t take too much with you. If you can take nothing but your phone, keys, and some pesos, you’ll be good. If you can’t go to Tepito, you can get micheladas anywhere - the traditional michelada is made with ajonjoli (sesame seeds) and chamoy, a sweet/spicy sauce that coats the rim of the glass. There’s sometime a bit of lime in the beer as well. I love this essay that covers beer culture + micheladas in Tepito.

I don’t know much about the shopping because I actually didn’t buy anything. I didn’t take any cooking classes. I didn’t go to Xochimilco, unfortunately. I don’t know about dancing because I’m a very shy person when it comes to dancing, but if you want to know where to take motorcycle lessons, I recommend Motoshkola! 

You’ll have a good time in CDMX. You can find whatever you want there. If you feel overwhelmed, go take a park nap in one of CDMX’s many green spaces. If you feel like celebrating your existence and this moment, parties don’t stop until 6am. If you want to see a play, the local theater scene is vibrant, and many Broadway shows seem to visit CDMX as well. I know there’s a lot to see in the neighborhoods I didn’t mention, but venture down to Del Valle, to Coyoacán, go to the University area, take the public transportation - don’t feel like the city is contained, don’t feel restricted, don’t be that person who once said to me “What? You don’t live in Condesa? But isn’t it unsafe where you are?” 

Be respectful, be kind, don’t only speak with Mexicans when you want your Airbnb cleaned (I feel very strongly about this, as the city changes with more foreigners coming to stay for a bit, many don’t seem to move beyond their own bubbles), please don’t assume that everyone speaks English, and enjoy yourself. 

Also, if you leave Mexico City without having 1 J Balvin Song and at least 1 Bad Bunny song on loop in your head, sorry, you didn’t visit Mexico City. Also also, prepare for your trip by listening to “La Gatita” - you’ll never get it out of your head, and you’ll hear it everywhere!

Add your recommendations in the comments below - and if you visit, let me know how it was.

With gratitude,

Kanan